My first time ordering caffè by myself in Naples was a disaster. It was New Years Eve, and I had just moved to Naples. Eager to kick off my "dolca vita" life, I threw on my nicest pair of Lululemon leggings (mistake #1,) a "cute" athleisure tank top (mistake #2,) and laced up my comfortable Aasics (mistake #3.) Bright eyed and bushy tailed, I walked down the street and into a fancy bar. The Gran Caffè Cimmino.
The second I walked into the bar (aka cafe) I knew I had made a grave mistake. I instantly felt the conversation stop and all the eyes of the fashionably-dressed old Italian men & woman staring me up and down. Was it the fact that I was the only person of color in the bar? That I hadn't exactly picked the most fitting outfit for the setting? That I was a new face on the scene? Probably a mixture of all three. Plastering on my brightest Hollywood smile, I marched up to the cashier (as I had seen others do) and tried to order my coffee. After deliberately having me wait what felt like an eternity, the lady at the cashier finally turned her unsmiling gaze to me.
"Un caffè, per favore," I said, slightly nervous.
She asked me something in rapid Italian that I interpreted as "Sitting or at the bar?"
Not knowing the phrase "Al banco," meaning "At the bar," I just smiled and pointed at the bar where a group of intimidating Italian men were sipping their espresso.
"Uno euro e veinte." The cashier lady responded with a scowl.
I paid in cash (the first thing I did correctly) and then walked over to the bar, holding my receipt like a lotto ticket. At the bar, the barista, a grumpy man dressed in a white suit, was whirling around in a stressed frenzy as he attempted to take the orders, pour the espresso, slap the scalding cermaic cup on the bar, and pour sparkling water in a little plastic glass, all in .01 milliseconds. Realizing that this man was never going to give me the time of day, I timidly waved my receipt in the air.
”Scusi! Un caffè per favore!”I yelled.
After a few more minutes of whirling around like the tasmanian devil, the barista finally looked at me with a sneer.
“Caffè? Che tipo di caffe?” He retorted, demanding I specified what kind of coffee I wanted. I think he was just being a jerk at this point.
”Uh...espresso. The normal kind,” I responded, slightly confused. In all the times that I had gone with my Italian boyfriend, we had always just said caffe and that was interpreted as espresso.
”Per potare?” he asked, insinuating that I should take my coffee to go.
“No! Per qui!” Irritated and not used to feeling accosted by baristas, I demanded to be served there, just like the others.
In the end I got my espresso, left the rude bar, and vowed to never go there again.
Now days, I’ve developed and perfected my morning espresso run ritual. I have my favorite bar that I visit several times a week, the men behind the bar know me and greet me with a smile, and I leave feeling happy & caffeineited. Without further ado, here is a quick guide to ordering cofee in Naples, Italy:
1. Embrace the 'Stand-Up' Culture: Remember the term "Caffè al banco", coffee at the bar. In Naples, coffee is often consumed standing at the bar. Forget about sitting leisurely with your coffee while reading a book. Sip your espresso, savor the moment, and keep moving. It's the Neapolitan way of staying energized while you explore the bustling city. If you have time and want to rest your legs, sitting at a table is usually an option, just know that you will be charged for the service, so your coffee will cost more.
2. Espresso is King, but you've got other options: Here's what people order at the bar:
Caffè amaro (espresso without sugar)
Caffè zuccherato (espresso with sugar)
Un decaf (espresso with less caffeine)
Caffè freddo (a cold, sweet, icy espresso, perfect on hot days)
Cappuccino (espresso with frothed milk, can ask for "latte senza lattosio," which is milk without lactose)
Orzo (a caffeine-free barley hot coffee)
Ginseng ( a sweet, warm, creamy, root drink)
Caffè americano (espresso diluted in hot water)
Spremuta (fresh squeezed orange juice)
3. Hydrate before you die-drate: When ordering coffee, you will usually receive a little plastic cup of water with it. "Frizzante or naturale?" The barista will ask, meaning, "sparkling or still?" I usually go with frizzante.
4. Be Confident and Assertive: The Neapolitan coffee culture is fast-paced, and the baristas are no-nonsense. When you order, stand your ground, make eye contact, and be ready to pay quickly, or show them your receipt if you already paid at the cashier. Some bars have you order and pay the cashier, then show your receipt to the barista, while others will have you order and pay the barista.
5. How much you should actually be paying: Un caffè al banco usually costs anywhere from 1 euro to 1 euro 20 cents. If they're asking you for more and you're just having your coffee standing at the bar, they're probably scamming you. If you liked the barista, you can leave 20 cents for them at the bar.
6. Embrace the Noise: Naples is known for its lively atmosphere, and coffee bars are no exception. Don't be surprised if you hear animated conversations, the slamming of ceramic coffee plates on the bar, and the hiss of the espresso machine all at once. It's all part of the Neapolitan experience.
7. Time of Day: Italians have this strong conviction about when it's appropriate to order coffee with milk in it. If it's before 11am, you can order a cappuccino without jugement, but if you order a cappuccino after 11am (which I still sometimes do when I'm hungry and need it to hold me over until I have time to get actual food) just know that you might be slightly judged.
8. Dress the Part: Different bars have diferent unwritten dresscodes. If it's a nice bar, like the Gran Caffè Cimmino, with its gold accents and suit-wearing baristas, you may want to think twice before entering in your athleisue and Aasics (guilty.) If it's a casual bar, like Bar Olimpico, you can pretty much wear whatever you want.
By following these guidelines, you'll navigate the Neapolitan coffee scene like a pro and earn the respect of the locals. Just remember: when in doubt, order "un caffè" and enjoy the rich, bold flavor of Napoli, one tiny cup at a time.
Un bacio,
Amby
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