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Susamielli: The Story Behind the Classic Italian Cookie Recipe

Writer's picture: Amby MathurAmby Mathur

Updated: 5 days ago

espresso steaming with an italian chritmas cookie on a plate
Happiness is a steaming hot cup of espresso with a freshly baked Italian cookie

Earlier this month, I had a student book an in-person baking experience with an interesting request. She didn't want to learn the usual braided brioche recipes that we teach during our in-person experience at the panificio, she wanted to learn Southern Italian Christmas Cookies. This led me down a path of learning and testing different Italian cookie recipes, until I found one that was both delicious and fairly simple to make- Susamielli.


When it comes to Italian cookie recipes, Susamielli is a standout. These crescent-shaped cookies from Naples have been gracing Italian Christmas tables for centuries, offering a delicious bite of history in every crumb. Made with honey, almonds, and pisto (an Italian spice blend that literally smells like Christmas,) Susamielli cookies are as festive as they are flavorful.


Let’s dive into the origin story of this beloved cookie and learn how to make it at home.


Amby & Luciana at the bakery
Luciana & I teaching an in-person baking workshop in Naples, Italy

The Origin of Susamielli: A Neapolitan Classic


Susamielli dates back to the 16th century, making it one of the oldest Italian cookie recipes still cherished today. Originally crafted by Neapolitan nuns in convents, these cookies were often given as gifts to noble families during the holiday season.


Their signature crescent shape, resembling an “S,” is believed to symbolize the serpent, a creature tied to ancient Mediterranean myths of fertility and renewal. Over time, Susamielli became a staple of Neapolitan Christmas celebrations, with every family adding their own special twist to the recipe.


Traditionally, Susamielli cookies were classified into three types:


  • Susamielli Nobili: Made with the finest honey and almonds, reserved for the wealthy.

  • Susamielli del Popolo: A simpler version for the general public, often using less expensive ingredients.

  • Susamielli degli Zampognari: A humble variation gifted to traveling musicians (zampognari) who played bagpipes during the Christmas season.



A woman smiles in an apron and has a historical scale and bakery behind her
Our adorable student, Rosemary, measuring flour with the bakery's historical scale

Why Susamielli Deserves a Spot on Your Table


Italian cookie recipes are all about flavor and tradition, and one might say that those nuns who invented Susamielli "understood the assignment." The combination of honey, almonds, and spices like cinnamon and clove creates a rich, aromatic cookie that feels like a warm hug on a cold day.


What’s more, these cookies have a unique chewy texture with a slight crunch from the almonds, making them the perfect pairing for a cup of coffee, tea, or even a glass of vin santo (sweet Italian dessert wine).


Amby holds fresh Italian cookies
Susamielli biscotti fresh out of the forno

How to Make Susamielli: An Easy Italian Cookie Recipe


Now that you know the backstory, it’s time to get baking! Here’s how to bring a little Neapolitan tradition into your kitchen.


Ingredients

  • 100 almonds

  • 70g, 1/3c sugar

  • 250g 00, 2c flour (can sub all purpose)

  • 1 tbsp pisto (can use a ready blend or make your own)

    • 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

    • ¾ teaspoon ground nutmeg

    • ¾ teaspoon ground cloves

    • ¾ teaspoon ground star anise

    • ⅛ teaspoon ground coriander 

    • ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper 

  • 2g, 1/2tsp baker’s ammonia (can sub with cream of 1.3g, 1/3 tsp. cream of tartar + 0.67g, 1/8 tsp baking soda)

  • 50g 1/4c candied orange peel (optional)

  • 250g, 3/4c warm liquid honey

  • Splash milk

  • 1 egg white (for painting egg wash)


Step-by-Step Instructions


  • Preheat oven to 180C /356F

  • Grind almonds with sugar to get a smooth but coarse mixture. I do NOT recommend substituting with almond flour, the almond flour is too fine and will change the texture of the cookies

  • Combine the almond sugar mixture with flour in a bowl

  • Add spices and ammonia to the bowl, mix to combine

  • Add honey to bowl, knead the dough

  • If the dough is looking too dry and crumbly, add a splash of milk. The goal is to get a homogenous dough that you can shape

  • Form the dough into a big log, break in half into two separate logs

  • Roll each log out into a long cylindrical shape

  • Cut into equal pieces about 40-45g each, can use a digital scale to weigh

  • Roll each piece into a long caterpillar like shape ~10cm long, then form into an S shape

  • Place two almonds on top of each cookie, in the gaps of the S

  • Paint with egg wash

  • Bake in oven for 20-25 minutes, until bottom is golden

  • Let cool and harden

  • Enjoy!


Tips for Perfect Susamielli


  • Use High-Quality Honey: The flavor of your cookies depends heavily on the honey you use. Opt for a rich, floral honey for the best results.

  • Make Ahead: Susamielli taste even better the next day, as the flavors have time to meld and develop. Store them in an airtight container for up to two weeks.


a woman brushes egg wash on Italian cookies at a historical bakery
Rosemary painting Italian cookies with egg wash before baking

Pairing Susamielli with Your Holiday Celebrations


Susamielli isn’t just a cookie—it’s an experience. Serve them as part of an Italian dessert spread alongside struffoli (honey balls) and panettone, or enjoy them solo with a steaming mug of espresso.


These cookies also make a wonderful homemade gift. Wrap them in bags with a festive ribbon, and you’ll have a thoughtful present that’s as delicious as it is meaningful.


italian cookies on a wooden cutting board with almonds
Can you spot the two different ways to decorate Susamielli?

Why Italian Cookie Recipes Are the Best


I had such a blast making these Italian cookies, and I hope you do too! Whether you’re looking to add a touch of authenticity to your holiday table or simply indulge in something sweet, Susamielli are a must-try. They’re not just a treat—they’re a bite-sized piece of history.


I made Susamielli, now what?


Click below to sign up for Amby's Baking Club! You will be notified when I publish the next recipe, and I'll also be hosting a free live baking class where we can develop our skills as pasticcieres together, If playing with dough, making "Wow!" desserts for your loved ones, and making new friends sounds fun to you, click here to learn more.



Buone Feste and Happy Baking!


Here are some other recipes you may enjoy:



Un bacio,

Amby


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